Rue Royale by Hove Parfumeur: Review and Draw
 by Marla Hove’ Parfumeur was founded in 1931 in the French Quarter by Mrs. Alvin Hovey-King, a military spouse who’d traveled widely and loved European perfumery. Yet the house emphasizes local aromatic treats like Tea Olive (osmanthus), Vetivert (widely used in the Southern US in linen chests), and Wild Azalea from the Gulf of Mexico. The line remains remarkably coherent, very little reformulation has occurred over the decades, and the shop, newly relocated to 434 Chartres Street, looks marvelously Old French Quarter. I’ve been visiting Hove’ Parfumeur since I was a wee small tot, and my favorite has always been their quiet yet elegant chypre “Rue Royale”. They describe it thusly: “A hint of musk pervades this basically dry and light fragrance, selected most often by fair brunettes who wish a quiet elegance.” My mother told me I was too young to wear such a sultry brew back when I was 7 (she’d buy me Tea Olive or White Ginger), but now that I’m all growed up, it’s a mainstay.  No matter how I’ve cajoled, they’ve refused to reveal even a single note of their popular perfume! How annoying. But as far as I can parse it, it’s a classic chypre, with real, lovely oakmoss, vetiver, soft jasmine and rose, and hints of spice and suede. It’s like polished mahogany, elegant and smooth. I like both the solid form, which I take traveling, and the perfume version, which is very rich indeed! I haven’t tried the Cologne version, because a rich chypre always seems more beckoning to me in a stronger formulation. They also make wonderful Tea Olive and Vetivert colognes, both very simple and elegant. 434 Chartres Street, New Orleans $21 through $152, also in a solid compact for $22 http://www.hoveparfumeur.com/HistoryPage.htm I’d love to send an interested reader a sample of the solid Rue Royale. Just leave a comment about a city you know of that has its own “Slow Perfumery” that emphasizes local material, or, if you don’t know of one, tell me which city should have such a perfumery. The winner will be chosen randomly. |
posted by Marina |
12:00 AM
55 Comments:
I do love New Orleans and I've visited the mystical fragrance shop and fallen in love with the scent. This was at the old location, of course. I'd love a chance at the chypre, a favorite scent category of mine. I love their real oakmoss ingredient--so alive!
I do love New Orleans
Basel in Switzerland should have such shop, it would suit its cultural and historical nature. Thanks - Alica - alica@cleis.net
I can't answer to your question...I'm based in Italy...but i hope to enter the drawn because I love cypre parfumes!
Kisses from Italy
Maria
Portland Oregon probably has a slow perfume house, but it most likely smells of coffee, hops, roses and bacon, or some sort of bullshit like that.
Harry Lehmann (Parfum Individual) in Berlin/Germany sells since more than 80 years individually bottled perfumes by weight.Even fragrances from the 30s and 40s are still in production. Around 50 varieties are always available. You can also created costumized fragrances.
quinncreative,
Ah, real oakmoss, such a treat! And it is a lovely shop, isn't it?
-Marla
II Graham,
Love your Portland brew? And aren't guys supposed to love bacon perfume, I remember reading some research on that. Personally, I love coffee notes in perfume.
-Marla
Christof,
What a wonderful place! I wish I'd known about it while I was still in Germany. There was an apothecary in Innsbruck that still carried colognes from original 18thC recipes.
-Marla
Thank you for sharing about this delightful-sounding perfumery in New Orleans, I will definitely be visiting when I return to NOLA! I think Atlanta too is ripe for slow perfumery.
Would love to try Rue Royale, please enter me in the draw!
I think Ljubljana should have a store like that.
Have always loved and shopped at Hove ever since I was a student at Tulane (mumble) years ago. The osmanthus shrubs there are the best-smelling things in the world! Please enter me in the drawing.
Alison,
Aren't those tea olives the best? I didn't know for the longest time they were osmanthus, and I thought they only grew in the Southern US, NOLA, specifically! :-)
-Marla
I don't know of any city that has a slow perfumery but I definitely want to! A slow perfumery sounds perfect not for a city, but a small town outside a city. I'd like to find one around any old city in the US or Canada. I'm going to have to follow up on the ones mentioned in the comments here.
-Mo
Charleston, SC, deserves a slow perfumery. I'd love a whif of that sultry Southern charm in the middle our Northern winters!
What a lovely contrast and accent a parfum like Rue Royale would be to scrappy, rough and tough Chicago! Alas, we have none. I imagine myself wearing it to my art studio, gallery openings, lectures at the art institute, jazz fest and political rallies!! Chicago cries out for such a fragrance.
I grew up in New Orleans, but never discovered the perfumeries until a couple years ago. Everytime I've been to Hove (on Royal), I never found the lady to be helpful-always got the feeling I was bothering her. I could barely smell the fragrances on the paper strips they had laid out. Unfortunate, because I've always heard good things about them. hopefully the customer service has improved.
This shop sounds great. I would love to visit it.
Alicante, in Spain, should have one :)
I had never heard about slow perfumeries before.
New Orleans holds a special place in my heart as it was there I began my perfume journey at three years of age, when I discovered Joy on the wrist of my Aunt Chloe.
Love seeing Hove get such a wonderful shout out, and thanks for a chance to win!
I am going to nominate Eureka Springs, Arkansas as a city (small town!) that could use just such a perfumery.
I had never heard of Hove and will seek it out on my next trip. If someone in Saco, Maine made perfume that smelled of rugosas, sea salt, and pine trees (or something that evoked that lonely, beautiful smell), I'd probably never wear anything else.
Olo fragrances line in Portland, Oregon. They have a blog spot.
I would think Istanbul would be terrific; the spices, the Bosphorus, the smoke--oooh yeah!
I agree with Julie R - Chicago needs some slow scents - but quick! This Friday is the big art opening evening of the fall season... Would love to smell Rue Royale
Please enter me in the draweing. I believe that my city, Portland, OR, may have such a concept in Slumberhouse, but not sure if they fit the "slow" bill. Portland is perfect for the concept though.
I agree that Charleston,S.C. would be a great city. Please enter me in the draw.
I assume St. Augustine, Savannah, & Charleston all have slow perfumeries, but I don't know. Have been wanting to go back to New Orleans for a visit, now I have a destination when I go. Rue Royale sounds great - please enter me in the draw, thanks.
I know there is no Slow Perfumery in my far west Texas desert home....it would be nice to have one around here, there are some amazing scents in the desert(as long as it's not around a cattle ranch haha)
Rue Royale sounds delicious
MoonRae,
How about a slow perfumery in Marfa??
-Marla
I've no idea of real such places, but I think Seattle should have one. Their perfume would smell of ferns and moss and sea breeze, cedar and spruce and wild orchid.
No need to enter me, but thanks for bringing more attention to this wonderful line! I adore Tea Olive, I got a sample and now I want a big bottle.
I am spoiled, because my city already has a magical "old world" perfume shop, and I can't imagine my life without it.
Ah, Flora, every city should have one, really! Or at least a signature perfume.
-Marla
San Francisco, of course! Ineke might count.
I don't know if Philadelphia has a slow perfumery, but I think it should. I'd go to the city to check that out. I did visit NOLA about 9 years ago, but did not get to Hove...was not a perfume nut at that point. But I loved NOLA, especially the Franch Quarter cool art galleries, voodoo shops, antique stores,restaurants and gorgeous old hotels.
MoonRae
There is a slow perfumery in San Antonio: The San Antonio Perfume Company; perfumes are wonderfully rich, and very reasonably priced (less than $40 for a 1 oz/30 ml splash bottle). They have a website for orders.
New Orleans also has Bourbon French Parfums and Lagniappe Oaks Perfumery, with a wide variety and great small sizes--and you can order on the Web, while Hove does only mail-order.
Please include me in the drawing; I'd love to try a Hove perfume. [snchamness at msn.com]
I would love to visit Hove, it sounds delightful!
In Vienna there is Knize as a local perfume house, but I guess they have gone pretty global by now.
Lovely post, Marla, thanks!
I also am in love with New orleans and will be back to visit mid-December this year. I'll look forwatd to visiting Hove' in its new location, and to sampling some more of their delightful scents. I was incredibly impressed with the helpfulness and professionalism of the shop staff on my last visit and can highly recommend them!
what arlene20 said...I agree!
Maureen,
Philly is one of my all-time favorite cities on the planet, and it should certainly have its own slow perfumery! I have found every licorice made in the world for sale there, heaven!-- so maybe a licorice-perfume??
-Marla
Thanks, Birgit, Knize is indeed wonderful, I'm glad they are expanding!
-Marla
maggiecat,
Lucky you! Have a wonderful winter visit.
-Marla
civava,
I've heard wonderful things about Ljubljana, tell me what you think slow perfumery would highlight there.
-Marla
Julie R,
I love the idea of slow perfumery in Chicago! I have to admit, I'm a huge fan of the Dresden books, now how could those be combined???
-Marla
Dixie,
I hope, if you visit again, that they lavish you with attention and samples! (Hope they are reading this....)
-Marla
Sharon,
As a longtime Texas resident, I know and love San Antonio- I will look up that perfumery and probably order a few samples! I hope the perfumes have a few names in Spanish, such a neglected language for perfumery, not fair! Most of the perfumes I make for friends and family have Spanish names.
-Marla
There should be a slow perfumery
in Toronto. For a city it's size,
the perfume scene isn't too great.
Please enter me in the draw.
And thank you!
The only such place I know of is indeed Hove, which I visited last December on my trip to NOLA. I did not bring any fragrance back with me. I plan to rectify this when I return in November for a Basenotes meet up. please enter me in the draw.
Marla, what a timely post for me! I'm going to NOLA next month with Shelley (ScentSelf) and we're definitely headed to Hove. Do you live in Nawlins now? I don't know why I'm drawing a blank on where you're located.
Dear Erin,
I'm in Florida now, I used to visit NOLA regularly, I hope you have a fabulous trip and find some real treasures!
-Marla
San Francisco has a few. Please enter me in the draw as well.
zeram1,
Yes, Northern California in general is loaded with slow perfumers, some amazing talents out there!
-Marla
Kiss in the Dark is great too. Hove is my favorite perfume house.
Kiss in the Dark is great too. Hove is my favorite house after Chanel.
I would love to have shop like this in my town,but I guess the spirt of New Orleans is factor of inspiraton.I've read reviews about Hove parfumeur and I will try them soon,they all sound great,it will be very difficult choice.
anapax,
I confess I've been wanting to try that one!!
-Marla
i love to bacon perfume, this is very good perfume. i like this. I also like ..AZZARO SILVER BLACK, BENETTON perfume, BVLGARI, CALVIN KLEIN etc.
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